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In Columbia County, where just 2 percent of the population is Asian, Morningbird’s arrival is both exciting and impactful. That fact isn’t lost on Wong, who had been living in New York City for the last ten years before relocating upstate this past summer. “I’ve come up to Columbia County to hike or to visit Hudson, but I’ve never lived in a place that’s so homogenous. That’s been the biggest personal adjustment: not seeing myself reflected in my surroundings,” she said. In Kinderhook especially, a calmer, more quaint counterpart to nearby Hudson, with less than 15,000 residents, the lack of ethnic and cultural diversity is all the more pronounced. But in the last few years, the small village has become a low-key destination in its own right. There’s The School, gallerist Jack Shainman’s colossal upstate outpost inhabiting a former middle school just around the corner from Morningbird which, along with the cafe’s forthcoming sibling dining concepts, is just one of several businesses to open in the 16,000-square-foot knitting mill. There’s also another art gallery, and OK Pantry, a fun and excellently curated shop for local goods and Scandi-inspired products—both businesses of which are woman-owned. A small retail space within Morningbird, meanwhile, displays ceramics, books, and indie magazines, largely celebrating products by female makers and artisans, including a limited-edition collaboration with the California-based ceramicist Stephanie Chiacos.
Wong credits her former partner from Van Da, the restaurateur Yen Ngo and the artist Darren Waterston, for inviting her upstate to partake in the duo’s mammoth multi-dining project. This spring, The Nest, a cozy cocktail lounge featuring its own menu by Wong, will debut in a separate space behind Morningbird, followed by The Aviary, a 100-seat restaurant in a sprawling, steel-framed structure with a soaring, cathedral-like ceiling in early summer. The largest of the three venues, both in scale and concept, the Aviary will showcase mostly Indonesian fare. It was a decision that Ngo and Waterston had established from the get-go, despite Wong’s initial unfamiliarity with that particular cuisine. Wong embraced it as an unexpected, but welcome challenge. “Cooking a new style of food with different kinds of flavors than those you grew up with—to learn how to do that with care and intention is very important,” she added.
Wong, who previously helmed the kitchen at the Michelin-awarded Vietnamese restaurant Van Da in Manhattan’s East Village, is overseeing a sizable, multi-venue dining hub occupying a former 19th-century knitting mill in the village’s central square, where Morningbird—the first of three dining concepts to open—currently operates as an all-day cafe. There, the weekly rotating menu features a trim lineup of casual Southeast Asian-inspired dishes such as juicy and umami-rich sambal chicken (see recipe below), and vegan lemongrass tofu with rice noodles, its flavors both earthy and herbaceous from mushrooms and fresh greens. Wong, 35, grew up in New Jersey eating foods that nodded to her family’s southern Chinese and Hong Kong roots (a lot of Cantonese and dim sum, she recalls), before a post-college year traveling throughout southeast Asia exposed her to the flavors of Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and Cambodia. Morningbird’s menu reflects all of those various regions. “These are all the dishes and flavors that I love, and I don’t think we’re so strict about making sure it fits into a very certain box,” she explained over the phone. Nearby farms and their local ingredients may offer up inspiration for each week’s menu, but beyond that, Wong’s sees Morningbird as an opportunity for adventure, a chance to display her culinary versatility.
Suitable for Women/Men/Girl/Boy, Fashion 3D digital print drawstring hoodies, long sleeve with big pocket front. It’s a good gift for birthday/Christmas and so on, The real color of the item may be slightly different from the pictures shown on website caused by many factors such as brightness of your monitor and light brightness, The print on the item might be slightly different from pictures for different batch productions, There may be 1-2 cm deviation in different sizes, locations, and stretch of fabrics. Size chart is for reference only, there may be a little difference with what you get.
- Material Type: 35% Cotton – 65% Polyester
- Soft material feels great on your skin and very light
- Features pronounced sleeve cuffs, prominent waistband hem and kangaroo pocket fringes
- Taped neck and shoulders for comfort and style
- Print: Dye-sublimation printing, colors won’t fade or peel
- Wash Care: Recommendation Wash it by hand in below 30-degree water, hang to dry in shade, prohibit bleaching, Low Iron if Necessary
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