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Wong credits her former partner from Van Da, the restaurateur Yen Ngo and the artist Darren Waterston, for inviting her upstate to partake in the duo’s mammoth multi-dining project. This spring, The Nest, a cozy cocktail lounge featuring its own menu by Wong, will debut in a separate space behind Morningbird, followed by The Aviary, a 100-seat restaurant in a sprawling, steel-framed structure with a soaring, cathedral-like ceiling in early summer. The largest of the three venues, both in scale and concept, the Aviary will showcase mostly Indonesian fare. It was a decision that Ngo and Waterston had established from the get-go, despite Wong’s initial unfamiliarity with that particular cuisine. Wong embraced it as an unexpected, but welcome challenge. “Cooking a new style of food with different kinds of flavors than those you grew up with—to learn how to do that with care and intention is very important,” she added.
In Columbia County, where just 2 percent of the population is Asian, Morningbird’s arrival is both exciting and impactful. That fact isn’t lost on Wong, who had been living in New York City for the last ten years before relocating upstate this past summer. “I’ve come up to Columbia County to hike or to visit Hudson, but I’ve never lived in a place that’s so homogenous. That’s been the biggest personal adjustment: not seeing myself reflected in my surroundings,” she said. In Kinderhook especially, a calmer, more quaint counterpart to nearby Hudson, with less than 15,000 residents, the lack of ethnic and cultural diversity is all the more pronounced. But in the last few years, the small village has become a low-key destination in its own right. There’s The School, gallerist Jack Shainman’s colossal upstate outpost inhabiting a former middle school just around the corner from Morningbird which, along with the cafe’s forthcoming sibling dining concepts, is just one of several businesses to open in the 16,000-square-foot knitting mill. There’s also another art gallery, and OK Pantry, a fun and excellently curated shop for local goods and Scandi-inspired products—both businesses of which are woman-owned. A small retail space within Morningbird, meanwhile, displays ceramics, books, and indie magazines, largely celebrating products by female makers and artisans, including a limited-edition collaboration with the California-based ceramicist Stephanie Chiacos.
So far, the payoff has been visible and vocal. “A couple came in last week, and they said they drove 45 minutes to pick up my khao soi. I worried that mine wouldn’t live up to their own taste memories, because that’s such a subjective thing. But it lived up to my own memories from traveling through that region,” Wong said. “I think the flexibility that we allow ourselves has been an asset. We don’t take ourselves too seriously, and are allowing some room for exploration and just seeing what works…it works for us.” “Sambal is a classic Indonesian chili-based condiment that’s particularly great as a base for marinades and sauces. There are dozens of versions, so I encourage anyone to explore the many variations available. I love this dish because it balances all of the flavor notes that I love. It’s at once sweet and savory, umami-rich, spicy, acidic, and herbaceous.” — Chef Hannah Wong
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