Tee9s – Houston Astros My Apologies Middle Finger logo shirt

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Though often compared to vanilla, pandan tastes and behaves quite unlike anything else. Its emerald blades, which grow up to seven feet in the wild, can take any number of life paths once harvested: When reduced to a powder or extract, pandan is both a flavor agent and food coloring. Left intact, the leaves become a potent aromatic when cooked or steamed alongside grains or proteins. (Too tough to eat whole, the cooked leaves are typically removed prior to serving.) Pandan can alternately be chopped and blended into batters or milks, spread on toast as a custardy jam, or boiled in water for a super-simple tonic. Pandan desserts, meanwhile, are a category unto themselves. From traditional kuih (steamed jelly-like custards found across Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia) to handheld waffles, they span most every Southeast Asian cuisine, according to food blogger Jun.

Houston Astros My Apologies Middle Finger logo shirt

Photographed by Fujio Emura. Set Design by Grace Beck.The latter category—desserts—has fueled pandan crazes past and present. In the mid-20th century, according to Saveur, a widely circulated Better Homes and Gardens recipe spawned an international sensation: pandan chiffon cake. In present-day New York, that kelly-green sponge continues to make waves: At the Ha’s Đặc Biệt pop-up last winter, baker-in-residence Mina Park of Ninety Nine Cakes struck a chord with a riff on the pandan snack-cakes of her native Atlanta’s Vietnamese supermarkets. “It was the one cake I kept on the menu for the whole three-month pop-up,” she says. “To have that kind of staying power…I think it meant something.” To Park, the meaning comes down to more than taste alone. “Pandan [is] a flavor I’m always thinking of—it’s always in the back of my mind,” she says. “My eyes were always drawn to that neon green hue…That’s where my nostalgia is.” For some, the gestalt of pandan goes even further back than childhood. “My absolute favorite aspect of cooking with pandan is that it allows me to commune with my auntie ancestors,” says Doris Hồ-Kane of Cobble Hill’s Bạn Bè, dubbed New York’s first Vietnamese-American bakery. “I become a part of our unique food lineage.”

Houston Astros My Apologies Middle Finger logo s hoodie

Bingka Pandan topped with sesame seeds from Kuih Cafe, Bánh Kẹp Lá Dứa (Pandan Waffle) from Bạn Bè and Bánh Bò Nướng (Vietnamese Honeycake) from Banh by Lauren. Photographed by Fujio Emura. Set Design by Grace Beck.Thanks to entrepreneurs like Park and Hồ-Kane, that lineage is finding new expression in the New York area, where the full spectrum of Southeast Asian cuisine has historically been underrepresented compared to the West Coast and parts of the South. At Bạn Bè, which opened a brick-and-mortar outpost in July following a string of über-successful pop-ups, pandan-infused confections like butter cookies and pandan-coconut frappes channel its founder’s Texas upbringing. “[My] favorite early memories of pandan are having it in fresh, warm soybean milk and in bánh bò hấp, a steamed ‘honeycomb’ rice cake,” Hồ-Kane says. “The green wash of color was so beautiful to me… It still is!”

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