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But don’t get me wrong: Ice Spice can hold its own. If internet trolling tends to come with young artists’ territory, she’s turned her jokes into art. When a fan retweeted a photo of Ice Spice in a cropped fur coat, tight jeans, and layered BB Simon belt, suggesting she needed a stylist, Ice Spice responded – a simple “you won’t understand” – has garnered more than 300,000 likes on Twitter. “I feel like I’m being mocked a lot, and I think [everyone] should know that,” she said with a laugh. “I can’t even control it.” There’s one thing to know about Ice Spice: She’s always, always, in the joke. Leaving our guest room at Akizuno Garden before sunrise, my friend Diana and I headed for a morning appointment at Senko-Ji Shrine, a sanctuary located on the outskirts of Tanabe City in Japan’s Wakayama Prefecture. Copy. Walking up a curved slope and climbing a series of stone steps, we found ourselves near a cemetery from which we could hear Iwahashi Zenichi, a Buddhist monk, at work. Wearing a navy kimono and a wooden juzu prayer beads around his neck, he knelt on a bright red and silver pillow in front of the altar. I watched as he played a set of black Tibetan-style bowls while using a mallet to strike a mokugyo, a wooden drum shaped like a fish, in preparation for his daily routine: zazen. Thanks to our guide from Oku Japan—the tour company that helped plan our self-guided journey along a stretch of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage—Diana and I knew what to do. As Zenichi recited sutras in front of the Buddha, we quietly took off our shoes before entering the temple to begin our meditation. In order to prepare to meditate with Zenichi, we need to go through the Shoko ritual first. Joining our hands in a prayer form, we bowed our heads to show our gratitude and respect before entering the altar to light incense. Keeping it close to the top, we aim for a week-long trip before burning it in front of the altar. Photo: Diana Zalucky
Photo: Diana Zalucky After Zenichi served us baito, a warm drink made from plums, we followed him into his tatami room to begin meditating. Sitting cross-legged, we waited in silence as Zenichi rang the bell four times, announcing the start of the Zazen journey, a form of meditation that balances the mind and promotes inner peace and liberation from all forms. distraction or desire. Just relaxing after our lesson, I asked him why his drum had a fish in it. “Fish have no eyelids, and neither do monks,” he said. “Like fish, we always keep our eyes open.” After arriving in Osaka two days ago—Diana via Los Angeles and me from my home in Mexico City—we officially embarked on a weeklong self-guided journey along part of the Kumano Kodo, a series of routes The ancient pilgrimage route is located on the Kii Peninsula, the largest pilgrimage route in Japan. As one of the only two pilgrimage routes in the world recognized as a World Heritage Site (the other being the Camino de Santiago in Spain), Kumano Kodo has been traversed by Japanese descendants for thousands of years. visit countless sacred sites inside. area. Photo: Diana Zalucky
Although we did not have a direct instructor to show us the way, we did have a schedule and personal book prepared by Oku Japan that included all the details of our itinerary. (They even pre-booked our hotel rooms and bought us train tickets; all we really had to do was get from one stop to another.) Self-proclaimed navigator, I controls train tickets and directions, while Diana takes the lead in interpreting via a portable language device. Photo: Diana Zalucky Photo: Diana Zalucky Starting in the city of Tanabe, known as the gateway to the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route, we began our adventure along the trail after our Zazen meditation journey by meets Toshio Tamai, a third generation farmer, on his land. Specializing in the cultivation of unshu mikan, a Japanese mandarin-like citrus, we took Tamai for a walk in the fields to learn more about his process. While he grows three varieties of citrus on his farm, he says, the area is like an orchard, with nearly 80 types of fruit grown nearby. “What I like most about owning my farm is that I have clients like you,” he said. “I love it when visitors like the taste of what I make. I’m glad to see you happy.” After making our own bento boxes with Akizuno Garten’s female chefs—and making two best friends who work at the hotel’s cafe, who gave us the best soft vanilla ice cream we’ve ever had. I tasted it in Japan—we made a mark. Through the forest, beyond giant pine trees and lakes with reflections of autumn leaves, we arrived at a traditional guesthouse in Chikatsuyu, where we slept on tatami floors and Drink a lot of green tea. The next day, we walked along the Kumano Kodo which was what we were most looking forward to: We got to meet Katsumi Ueno, the last monk to practice Shugendo (an ancient Japanese religion centered on worship on the ground) mountains) in his hometown of Hongu. After meeting him at a local coffee shop in Hongu and having coffee before our upcoming journey, a full day hike from Hongu to Sanzai Touge, we began our journey. Wearing a traditional monk’s hat, Ueno blew his silver-dipped conch and conch to symbolize the beginning of our journey. When I asked him why he was called into this path of life, he explained it was a matter of divine will. “My destiny is to become a monk,” he said. “I want to do something for my ancestors.” Photo: Diana Zalucky
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